SANJAI VELAYUDHAN
INTRODUCTION:
Kollam is located in Kerala. It was also known by its Portuguese name “Quilon”. It is an old sea port town on the Arabian coast and stands on the banks of the Ashtamudi Lake. Kollam, the erstwhile “Deshinganadu” while it was ruled by the Travancore Kings from Thiruvananthapuram in southern Kerala was the focal point of trade. It had a sustained commercial reputation from the days of the Phoenicians and the Romans and had active trade relationship with the Chinese trade. Its port was also visited by the compulsive traveller from the Tangiers-Ibn Batuta, in the 14th century. This place is a veritable “Kerala in miniature” and is gifted with unique representative features of the state like the sea, lakes, plains, mountains, rivers, streams, backwaters, forest, vast green fields etc. Tropical crops of many varieties both food crop and cash crops are grown here in abundance. About thirty per cent of this district is covered by the Ashtamudi Lake, there by making it the gateway to the backwaters of the state. Once a city of palaces, Kollam has been known to the outside world, by the time honored proverb in Malayalam that may be loosely translated thus: "Once you have seen Kollam you would no more need your Home".
GEOGRAPHY:
The district is situated on the south west coast of India. It extends from latitude 9° 28' N to 8° 45' and longitude 76° 28' to 77° 17' N. The district covers an area of 2,492 sq. Kms and by size it ranks seventh in the State of Kerala. It is bound on the south by Thiruvananthapuram district, on the north by Pathanamthitta and Alappuzha, on the east by Tamil Nadu and on the west by the Arabian Sea. The town is very famous for cashew processing and coir manufacturing. It is the southern gateway to the backwaters of Kerala, and thus, a prominent tourist destination. The district has a tropical humid climate, with an oppressive summer and plentiful seasonal rainfall. The hot season, lasting from March to May, is followed by the south west monsoon from June to September. The north east monsoon occurs from October to November. The rest of the year is generally dry.
A SHORT HISTORY:
Kollam port was known preciously as Nelcynda shares its fame with Kodungallur (Muziris or Muchiri) as an ancient sea port on the Malabar Coast of India from early centuries of the Christian era. As mentioned earlier, it has trade relations with many countries. Pliny the Elder (23-79 AD) mentions that Greek ships anchored at Muziris and Nelcynda. While Muziris or Muchiri was ruled by the Chera Dynasty, and Nelkanda or Nelcynda was ruled by their rivals, the Pandya Dynasty. Kollam was the chief port of the Pandyas on the West Coast and was connected with Korkai (Kayal) port on the East Coast and also through land route over the Western Ghats. Spices, pearls, diamonds and silk were exported to Egypt and Rome from these two ports on the South Western coast of India. Pearls and diamonds came from Ceylon and the South eastern coast of India, and then referred to as the Pandya kingdom.
Cosmos Indicopleustes, who visited Malabar Coast in 522 AD, mentions about Vaishnavites in Kollam. He wrote, "In the island of Tabropane (Ceylon), there is a church of Christians, and clerks and faithful. Likewise at Male, where the pepper grows; and in the town of Kalliana there is also a bishop concentrated in Persia" (Reference: Travancore Manual). The Nestorian Patriarch Jesujabus who died in 660 A.D. makes special mention of Quilon in his letter to Simon, Metropolitan of Persia. Merchant Soleyman Siraf from Persia who visited Malabar in the middle of the 9th century, mentions Quilon to be the only port in India touched by the huge Chinese ships on their way from Canton to the Persian Gulf. The rulers of Kollam, then, also had trade relations with China and exchanged embassies. According to the records of the Tang Dynasty (618 AD to 913 AD) (Reference: Travancore Manual, page 244), Quilon was their chief port of call and was given the name 'Mahlai' by them. The Chinese trade decreased about 900 AD and was again revived in the 13th century. Marco Polo, who visited China's Kublai Khan's court, on his return journey to Venice, travelled through Kollam and gave an interesting account of the flourishing port of Kollam (Coilum, as referred to by him) and its trade relations with China in the East and the Western countries. Chinnakada, (China-kada), the city center, was so named after the Chinese merchants. The increase in commercial activity resulted in establishment of flourishing Chinese settlement at Kollam.
Marco Polo, the great Venetian traveller, who was in Chinese service under Kublai Khan, visited Kollam in 1293 A.D. on his return trip from China to Venice. He found Christians and Jews living in Coilum (Kollam). He also found merchants from China and Arabia. He has given a detailed account of Kollam in his writings that are reproduced in the Travancore Manual.
The Portuguese were the first Europeans to establish a trading center in Thankasseri, Kollam in 1502. Kollam became the centre of trade in pepper. In the wars with the Moors/Arabs that followed, the ancient church of St Thomas was destroyed. In 1517, the Portuguese built the St. Thomas Fort in Thankasseri. The fort was destroyed in the subsequent wars with the Dutch. The ruins of the Fort can still be seen in Thankasseri. In 1661 the Dutch took possession of the town. The remnants of the Dutch forts can be found at Thankasseri. In the 18th century Travancore conquered Kollam, followed by the British in 1795. A British garrison was stationed at Kollam in pursuance of a treaty between Travancore and the British. The Infant Jesus Church (a la the Bom Jesus Church in Goa and Portugal) in Thankasseri still remains as an old Portuguese-built church, reminding us of the Portuguese rule of the area.
One of the prominent personalities of Kollam is Velu Thampi Dalawa, the erstwhile prime minister of the powerful Travancore kingdom. He singlehandedly contributed to the development of improvement of Kollam town. He built new bazaars and invited merchants from Madras and Tirunelveli to settle here. Ironically following altercation with the British the same place became the nerve centre of the rebellion organised by him.
The start of the Malayalam era is associated with Kollam and is one of the main reasons of its prominence. The Malayalam Era that commenced in 824 AD is also referred as Kolla-varsham after Kollam.
CULTURAL CONTRIBUTIONS
Kollam, the capital of the erstwhile Venad, was a great centre of learning and culture. It attracted distinguished scholars from all parts of South India. “Leelathilakam” and “Unnuneelisandesam”, two outstanding literary works of historical importance were creations from the 14th Century Kollam. It was also the centre of origin of “Ramanattam”, the then contemporary interpretation of the iconic malayali dance form “Kathakali”. It was created by Kottarakkara Thampuran, who also has the reputation of improving “Krishnattam” by making it more laymen friendly. He substituted the language of performance from Sanskrit to Malayalam which is nothing short of a scholarly work.
CONCLUSION:
Among the towns of Kerala, Kollam is second, only to Kodungallur in terms of historic antiquity. It was renowned as an international emporium of trade in the ancient world and the capital of the powerful “Venad" kingdom ruled by the then “Thiruvithamkoor Kings” that was propelled to prominence in the 9th century A.D. Kollam maintains its traditions of commerce even today. It is the nerve-centre of Kerala's cashew industry. It s a rich town and sophistications of a major metropolitan town is missing. In Kollam one can still find the remnants of the Portuguese and Dutch forts and its famous 45 meter high light house still stands as the vestige of a past era. The Government Guest House which was built by the Divan of erstwhile Travancore State C.I. Munroe, in 1812, is even now a major attraction for its elegance and architectural beauty. This is where one goes to find history and simplicity in search of peace and tranquility possibly munching on its quality cashews!
SOME ATTRACTIONS OF KOLLAM:
OACHIRA: It is a unique pilgrim centre, 32 Kms from Kollam on the national high way, that symbolizes the “Advaita” Philosophy. Contrary to the concept of normal Hindu temples, the presiding “deity” here is the "Para-Brahma", the absolute reality, the great source of all forms and phenomena which cannot be symbolized by an idol or housed in a temple. Hence there is no temple or idol for the presiding deity here. The temple festival "Oachira Kali" held in June, is a festival that pulls in crowds in large numbers.
ARYANKAVU: It is 70 Kms away from Kollam on the Shencotta road is the pilgrim centre in the mountains "ARYANKAVU". It is a temple dedicated to Lord Shasta (Ayyappa) whose abodes are generally on top of inaccessible mountains or hills. This temple has some fine sculptures and mural paintings.
JATAYUPARA: It is located in Chadhayamangalam on the M.C. road. It is a huge rock named after Jatayu, the mythical giant bird straight from the Hindu epic Ramayana. According to legends this is where it fell after its wings were cut-off while trying to save Sita from being kidnapped by Ravana, the demon king to his abode-Lanka (Today’s Sri Lanka). The rock attracts adrenalin–junkies who look forward to an exhilarating experience of hang-gliding.
KOTTUKAL ROCKCUT CAVE TEMPLE: Located 11 Kms from Chadhayamangalam, This temple is situated on the Thiruvananthapuram - Kottayam MC Road and is fine and outstanding example of rock cut temple architecture.
THANGASHERI: It is located 5 Kms from the town of Kollam. This seaside village is of historic importance due to the presence of ruins of an Old Portuguese fort and churches built in the 18th century. It is also the location of the Thangasseri lighthouse of 1902 vintage, which is 144 feet high.
PALARUVI: The word translates as “River of Milk” - One of the well known water falls in south India, it is located 66 Kms from Kollam. The scenic location has hills, valleys and cascades and is covered with dense tropical forest and offers beautiful views.
SASTHAMKOTTA: It is located 29 Kms away from Kollam. With the vast fresh water lake spreading over the valleys of several hills, Sasthamkotta Lake has also been referred to as “the Queen of Lakes".
BACKWATER CRUISE: Considered as the gateway to the backwaters of Kerala, the Ashtamudi backwaters are renowned for its cruises in “Keetu-vallams”-modified traditional boats of Kerala. A trip from Kollam to backwater networks in the adjoining district of Alappuzha and further is a delightful experience.
© Sanjai Velayudhan.
end note: the author would like your feedback on this article. please write to him on sanjai.velayudhan@gmail.com
A behavioural trainer by education and a loyalty specialist by profession. Sanjai has PG qualifications in Training and performance management from CLMS, University of Leicester.Sanjai is a compulsive writer and has recently chosen article base to put his thoughts together. For select whitepapers on loyalty, please visit: http://www.itcinfotech.com/Loyalty-Solutions/Home.html.He is currently working on two articles for publication on Goa & Kerala. Will be published in a couple of visits.
