Gulf Islands National Park was created to preserve the unique environment in the chain of islands on the southeast side of Vancouver Island. The larger islands in the park include Mayne, North Pender, South Pender, Saturna, and Prevost Islands. Many other smaller islands and islets are in the park along with some very important marine protected areas. The Gulf Islands are part of the same chain of islands that include the U. S. San Juan Islands.
Because the islands are on the east side of Vancouver Island, they are very protected against the weather that comes in from the Pacific Ocean. This fact makes them a favorite summer boating area, including sea kayaking. The passages are filled with power boats and sailboats in the warm months. When the ferry traffic is added to this mix, a kayaker needs to be awake and aware at every moment on the water.
Paddling in these islands is worth any effort it takes to be there, however. The park areas of the islands are filled with history, the beaches are beautiful, and the wildlife is abundant. These are the waters of the southern resident Orca pods, travelling through looking for fish. Large groups of seals can often be found sunning on rocks around the islands, and sea lions travel throughout. River otter are common in the area and can be seen swimming and clambering over the rock ledges at the edges of the islands.
Bird watching can be a good motivation to kayak these waters. The number of bird species is amazing. Common birds are the eagles, geese, herons, crows, ravens, robins, and gulls. The variety of water fowl in the area is tremendous, but they are a bit more shy than the "common" birds already mentioned. The hummingbirds are visible hovering around the flowers on the islands, as well.
Paddling in the shoulder seasons, or early spring and late summer/early fall relieves a kayaker of much of the boat traffic and competition for camping space, and these times are also dynamic periods for bird migration. The down side is that the temperature is a bit lower, the weather is slightly less predictable, and the light of the day is shorter. Overall, the benefits outweigh the down-sides. The key is to be properly prepared for the weather.
Wearing a wet suit, or better still, a dry suit, helps reduce any problems with cold water, especially in case of a capsize and immersion. With proper outer clothing and by taking extra dry clothes, paddling in the shoulder seasons is no problem. Taking a kayaking course to learn paddling skills and rescues helps build confidence to take on these more challenging waters. Learning how to obtain weather reports and predict weather trends are also important skills to take on for unguided paddling. The other important skill to pick up is navigation. Being able to orient, set a course, and adjust for other boat traffic is very important. The smaller boats can kick up a significant wake, but the larger ferries that ply these waters can really set a good sized wake. Learning how to navigate and negotiate these types of traffic areas helps keep everyone safe. This can be said about paddling most anywhere, but in these waters it is very important.
Putting into the water can be a challenge in the Victoria/Sidney area. Parking is difficult to find for multi-day trips. Scouting the areas for the best put-ins for you or your group is the best way to make sure your vehicle is where you left it when you return. Putting in on most of the islands in the park helps relieve this problem, or putting in in the Mill Bay or Cowichan Bay area is easier for parking, but adds some miles onto your paddle into the park. Good guidebooks can help with these decisions, but don't forget to scout it out. Some guidebooks are out of date and things do change.
Although it takes some skill and some scouting to get into Gulf Islands National Park Reserve for a sea kayaker, it is worth the effort to see the abundance of bird life and other wildlife. The geography shows how rock and sea combine to create magnificent sculptures in the native sandstone. Hanging out on the white shell beaches with a vista of other small islands is inspiring. The Gulf Islands National Park Reserve is a paddling destination worth visiting.
Gary Ward has been leading trips and teaching in wilderness areas for 20 years. Having travelled from desert to sea, he spends most of his time now in coastal areas, exploring the boundary between land and sea, land and sky, and sea and sky.
Gary can be found on one of these boundaries, running Coastal Bliss Adventures with his partner, Georgia Newsome, and writing about Beautiful BC.
